Western Bypass

This route is a single pitch variation to Cathedral of Western Fire, providing an easier alternative to the crux pitch. The exposure and unique positions of this traversing pitch should make for a fun and varied alternate for folks who want to see the Crystal Dike, but are less interested in the crux pitch of Cathedral of Western Fire. This route is very well protected.

Start up Cathedral of Western Fire until you reach the top of pitch 7. At the top of pitch 7, step right and join Rage Against the Dying Fire, climbing pitch 8. From the anchors at the top of pitch 8, climb right and up the right facing corner for 6m, then step left along a narrow ledge system that makes up the edge of the roof below. Continue traversing this lip left for 4m to gain a series of excellent hand cracks that are used to cross the steepest section of the traverse. A series of face and slab moves with good protection leads to the first bolt to clip, which is the 5th bolt on the crux pitch of Cathedral of Western Fire. Clip this bolt and finish out the upper part of pitch 9 of Cathedral of Western Fire, clipping 2 more bolts along the way to the anchors. Finish up pitch 10 of Cathedral of Western Fire to reach the top of the Shield.For completeness sake, below is the description of all 10 pitches incorporating the combination of Cathedral of Western Fire and Rage Against the Dying Fire as climbed on first ascent. Please note: pitch 9 below is Western Bypass.

Pitch 1: 10d, 28m, bolted anchorThis first pitch offers up a look into the climbing to come featuring clean, technical face, a bit of slab and interesting cracks and roof systems. Climb up and right, to clip the first bolt, continue face climbing up a clean face, passing 5 bolts to reach a roof. Turn the roof, then continue up over easier ground to the right of a small pine tree and a two-bolt belay. Pitch 2: 10b, 26m, bolted anchorFrom the anchor, head up and slightly left, following a broken crack system to reach a slender roof. Traverse under the roof, passing a bolt at its right end. From this bolt, head straight up, passing intermittent cracks, to reach a two-bolt belay ledge on the Fin.

Pitch 3: 11c, 30m, bolted anchorFrom the belay ledge, step over the divide, climbing straight up technical face to the roof, passing several bolts along the way. Turn the roof and continuing straight up for about 4 meters, then head right at a left facing corner, climbing initially rightward, then trend back left until you reach a 1-meter by 1.5-meter pillar. This pillar allows access to the ‘Broom Ledge’ with a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 4: 10a, 27m, bolted anchorFrom the belay ledge, head right (avoid getting lured into the loose corner on your left) then slightly left to tricky moves that guard a small delicate overlap, with a bolt within reach up high. Head upwards for about 3 meters above the bolt to easier climbing. From here, head right across the face to find protection in the slab. Cross the slab above by trending left to another hidden crack system. From this crack, continue straight up, passing easier, blocky ground to reach the top of the buttress, which offers a wonderful belay ledge with a two-bolt anchor.Pitch 5: 10c, 34m, bolted anchorHead up and right of the belay, to climb the left facing corner. At the top of the hand crack, step right, continuing rightward to reach a 3 to 4-inch diagonal crack. At the top of this crack, step left onto the face gaining the first bolt. Climb directly up from the first bolt (avoid getting pulled into the loose corner on your left) through a series of intricate side pulls and good feet, to reach a second bolt. Continue upwards with a slight right trend, surmounting a small bulge. Clipping the last bolt, then climb up and left to gain the left side of the amazing arête. Continue straight up cracks and low angle slab to a two-bolt anchor on a belay ledge. Pitch 6: 10a, 28m, bolted anchorHead up the obvious open book to your left, climbing a fun crack that ends in a small section of slab. At the slab, head up and right to tackle a short, ten-foot section of off-width/chimney just below a pine tree. Step right at the pine tree to gain a two-bolt belay ledge. Pitch 7: 10a, 33m, bolted anchorStep right across the chasm, continue traversing right for approximately 3 meters, to gain the first crack system. Take this crack about 4-meters high, then step far right again, to gain a second amazing splitter. Follow this crack for 20 meters ending in a left facing corner. Climb this corner, gaining another stunning belay ledge. From this ledge, you get your first good look at the crux pitch loaming overhead.

Pitch 8: 10a, 27m, bolted anchorAn awesome pitch. From the belay head right into the corner using laybacks, small cracks and edges to clip a fixed nut. Once at the fixed nut, avoid traversing left and instead stay in this corner, continuing to layback until reaching the base of the incredible serrated crack. Jam your way up the aesthetic crack, which ends too soon, to reach a belay ledge with a two bolt anchor below the roof above.

Pitch 9: 11b, 28 m, bolted anchorFrom the anchors, climb right and up the right facing corner for 6m, then step left along a narrow ledge system that makes up the edge of the roof below. Continue traversing this lip left for 4m to gain a series of excellent hand cracks that are used to cross the steepest section of the traverse. A series of face and slab moves with good protection leads to the first bolt to clip, which is the 5th bolt on the crux pitch of Cathedral of Western Fire. The final overhanging right facing arête guards the anchors. After the arête, follow a crack systems directly up, passing over small hand ledges and cracks to gain the final two-bolt belay.

Pitch 10: 5.9, 23m, gear anchorFollow the crystal groove moving up and left of the belay. Climb groove until gaining rounded ledges left of an overhanging roof/chimney and left facing corner. Climb left of the left facing corner/chimney as to avoid loose rock within the chimney. Intermittent cracks take you past the left facing corner and deposit you just 3 meters below the top of the Shield at a nice belay ledge with good cracks for a gear anchor. From this point it is 3 meters of 4th class to the top.Descent: One 70m rope. Every pitch has a 2 bolt anchor equipped to rap with a single 70m rope, except the top of pitch 8 and 10. You can single rope rap from the top of 9 to the top of 7, bypassing the gear anchor at top of 8. From the top of the route, if heading back to the base, you can descend the standard fixed lines or rappel pitches 9 & 8 of Rage Against the Dying Fire to join Cathedral of Western Fire at the top of pitch 7 where you can continue to rap Cathedral of Western Fire.

Western Bypass

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shield