- Edit (TBD)
Description
A marvelous route. Stick clip/be a little bit brave, then climb low 5.11 for several moves. After clipping, embark on an energy-sapping sequence of opposing sidepulls. Clipping the third draw can be tough, and a vigilant belayer will be able to keep you off the ground should you choose to skip it. Once under the roof, stand tall and ram your hand into the yawning abyss (who's your daddy indeed!). A good knee bar provides pause before the tough, powerful crux that can be done a few ways. Mantle, take advantage of a good rest, and regroup for the last thing you wanted: a difficult slab.
Location
Halfway across the carcass crag. An obvious steep line with a big roof/dagger, and a slab on top. Ooh-la-la.
Protection
Bolts, sometimes in situ. A long draw at the roof is helpful.