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Peak Mountain 3

Stronghold

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Description

It ain't [Cochise]! This route is located about 40 feet north of

No More War

. It's the second crack system from the prominent right-facing dihedral. Pitch one ends at the same anchors as

No More War

while pitch two ends at two bolts near the top of Combat.

P1 Begin in the moderate crack system which [diagonals] slightly to the left. Above you'll hit a slabby face to the small roof (crux). Once you pull the roof there will be some placements and then another slab (5.9) which is runout. Belay from the anchors.

P2 Head up towards the right, clip a bolt or start from the left which looked a bit easier. Once above a band of chossy rock enter a decent hand crack followed by a small offwidth (solid 5.8). Once above the crack there will be a ledge of sorts. Head climber's right for about 30 feet to two bolts.

Descent: 1 60m rope. Bolts-anchors->slung tree->ground. 3 raps. 2 ropes=2 raps.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot (if just doing the first pitch only up to #1).