We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Modern Day Warrior

FA Brian Benedon, Steve Tucker, Mike Minehart, Pat Gilbreath Nov. 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

[OK-- it's not really a "new" route, but it was never logged anywhere officially, for no particular reason.]

  1. Climb easy, weedy wall to belay bolt just left of the start of the “S” crack.

  2. Up crack to bolted belay. (5.9+ 145’)

  3. Follow main system past old bail-off bolt, then out roof to the right, past 4 bolts to bolted belay. (5.10a 170’) (It’s possible to belay on ledges midway through pitch)

  4. Up cracks, out small roof, past bolt to belay. (5.10 110’)

  5. Climb flakes to face, past 2 bolts, then back into crack. Belay at top. (5.8+ 155’)

Location

This beautiful, “S” shaped crack system is located on Table Mt., way right of “Cherry Jam” and the original descent gully. The FA team spent 2 ½ years on this project resulting in a sweet line filled with stemming, laybacking, jamming, and roof moves for 4 long pitches after the initial approach pitch. If you’re into the camping type of assault, (Pima Canyon approach working better for this,) there’s a beautiful (dry) camp spot at the top of the route.

Approach: [both options take 2.5 to 5 hrs.]

Option A: From base of “Cherry Jam,” hike right to the base of the descent gully and gear up, leaving packs there. Walk, rap, and traverse right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of “S” crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.

Option B: Park in Pima Canyon lot (overnight permit: 740-2690) and hike to top of Table Mt. Drop down original descent gully then walk, rap, and traverse (climber’s) right until possible to scramble up through vegetation toward base of “S” crack. Belay from stunted pine tree backed up with large cams.

Descent: Hike (climber’s) left to original descent gully. 2 single rope raps and a down climb to base of gully (or 4 single rope raps in snowy/wet conditions.)

Protection

Standard with doubles on cams to 3", and a 4". 60 M rope preferred, but not necessary.