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Peak Mountain 3

No Rest for the Wicked

FA Jon Crefeld 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

To the left of the obvious corner (Rachel's Crack). Start up the right edge of the shark's tooth. Step onto the main face and follow thin crack up and right-ward. Straight up to a short ledge, then into an open book and final overhang.

Location

Once you can see Tower Wall from the trail, continue ESE to the next tower and hike up toward the crag. At the right side of detached flake about 15 feet high, 20-30 feet left of Rachel's Crack. 41.1449833, -74.1653405

Protection

TR: Good trees for a top-rope anchor can be reached by hiking up. Long static lines will be needed between the trees and the edge.

Leading: with a standard trad rack, an anchor can be constructed with multiple pieces about 20 feet above the top edge of the cliff. Be sure to extend the anchor so the rope doesn't run over rock edges.

Some leaders might feel that the transition in the upper part, from the shallow open book to the V-notch is not well protected.