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Peak Mountain 3

Lightning and Rainbows

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Description

UPDATE: We finished bolting the upper face! You can now Climb this as a mixed trad/sport route.  Micros and mostly finger sized crack for 70ish feet then pull onto a 40 ft bolted section above the big roof clipping six bolts on the way to the chains.  Thinking the grade stays about the same .10+ may be harder for shorter people.    00 to #3's this thing eats .3/.4s.

If you don't want to clip bolts and want to continue follow the crack to the right of the big roof and continue up a wide crack using hand size to a #5 size gear.

The whole route is new and we have done some cleaning but it will need some more.. (lichen, loose rocks,etc)  Be extra careful a few of the rocks to the left and the right of the big roof are a little suspect so be aware.  Belaying under the lower roof should keep you safe from the leader creating rockfall..

If you climb it please leave a comment and grade rating! id love to see what you think..!

Location

On the arete on the far left side of the wall.. follow the approach directions for the middle basin and when you're half way down the couloir you will see a ledge on your right that skirts the base of the wall..  follow it all the way to the arete and look up.. you wont be able to see the crack till you're right underneath it..  the approach is loose please be careful.

Protection

If you're climbing the Mixed route: 6 draws, single or doubles 00 to .2s or small nuts,  3 or 4 .3 and .4s,  double .5 and .75, single 1,2,3    Bring extra 2 ,3,4,5 maybe a 6  if you're planning on climbing it all trad


Routes in Middle Basin


  1. 1
    Lightning and Rainbows
    5.10+
    Alpine · Trad