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MapDescription
This good route is the mirror image of
Teardrops
. It has a similar airy feel. From
Gangsta Ledge
, climb up and right starting on Father Roy, hand-traversing at the pod, and finishing the line of bolts up the right arete.
I did not want to compromise
Father Roy
, so you will probably want to bring a couple pieces of gear (#1 and 2 Camalot) or a stick-clip. The traverse will get the blood flowing for the bouldery crux that involves big pull to a crimp at the second bolt. Keep it together for a few more moves and finish up the easy, kind of runout slab to the anchors.
Protection
#1 and/or #2 Camalot (doesn't hurt to have both) for the
Father Roy
portion of the route. Then 3 protection bolts + two bolts for anchors.