- Edit (TBD)
Description
Freestone... tiny town, great bakery. Stone Free, a one time Bear classic which didn't make it through the fire in one piece..
Finding a way to avoid the section of fire damaged rock up high became imperative and a new line was located... moving right at the 4th bolt of Stone Free and around the arete onto Kodiak. Just after this point is where the contrivance begins.
At the 6th bolt (glue-in) the idea is to make a big move to a sinker 3 finger pocket out in the middle of the wall next to Smash n Grab. From there, more pockets put you onto the semi steep prow of white and orange quartz (I include EB in the FA since he climbed this section at one time as a possible way to do SnG..) 3 more bolts get you to a rams horn anchor.
Aside from the obviously forced nature of the line, this side of the Bear has always suffered from particularly crappy rock. Starting with the fun but snappy crux down low, onto the entirely suspect Kodiak and then finishing up on hollow buckets to the top, this route will be forever exfoliating.
Early poll returns range from contrived and chossy to fully classic.. time and traffic will determine whether or not this route gathers chalk or cobwebs..;)
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, the entire point of establishing this line as it is, was to provide a long and somewhat difficult alternate 1st pitch to the stellar upper section of Smash n Grab. Doing these two 11d pitches should prove to be a classic St Helena adventure!
Location
Right of Treasure Island, start directly below first of nine glue-in bolts.
Alternatively, the crux of this route can be entirely avoided by stick clipping the 3rd bolt and doing the Thornburg variation (10+)
Protection
9 glue ins to ramshorn anchor
Routes in The Bear
- 24Freestone5.11dSport