Spy Story

This route is not horrible but is not very good. It is not bad as a warm-up for other harder routes nearby, but it seems more difficult than the 5.7 rating given to it in the guidebook. It requires a lot of stemming. There is one fixed pin on the route, but it does not seem very good. It helps mark the route's location and can be backed up with a small cam. You can clip the first bolt on

Eye Sockets

... with a long runner. The crux seems to be at the top near the anchor. There is lots of lichen here, and a wide stem helps get past the difficulties.

This route is mostly to the right of

Eye Sockets

... but shares the same start. It ascends the right-facing dihedral with several small roofs right of

Eye Sockets

.... It is to the left of

Koon's Corner

and

Fogline

. Use the anchor on

Eye Sockets

... to descend and belay. You need two ropes to get down.

Standard rack to a #2 Camalot, 1 fixed pin, and extra small cams are useful. Use the anchors on

Eye Sockets

....