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Peak Mountain 3

Mary's Crack

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Description

This is a fun route with mostly easy climbing and two crux sections, one down low and the second up high on the second pitch.

Start in the same area as the Kindergarten Cracks. This is defined by a large right-facing corner, then a smaller right-facing corner to its right.

Mary's Crack starts in the next crack system to the right of these 2 corners, just left of the headwall at the base of the rock.

  1. Climb the steep hand crack and continue up the slab above, aiming for the slot which goes through the upper headwall/roof at a large left-facing corner. Belay at the base of the corner with a large horn which can be slung, or continue up the slab to a small pedestal and belay off cams right below the roof. (5.8, 160 feet)

  2. Crank through the slot with good feet and good jams, and continue easily to the top. The roof is well-protected with a #2 and #4 Camalot. (5.8, 100 feet)

Descend by walking off to the West.

Protection

Standard to light rack, up to a #4 Camalot.