Leveraged Buyout

The book gives this thing 5.11, but something crucial has broken off and it is definitely much harder, if not impassable at this point. The rock on the lower portion of the route is spooky soft and you never really feel comfortable clipping the bolts on this one. Higher up, something crucial is missing, blocking an easy path to the anchor.

This route sits in the gully on the right- it is the second route in from the entrance. Clip the high first bolt and then take the right hand line of bolts up, generally staying right of the bolts.

Start in the gully below the low ledge- mantle onto the scary ledge covered in bad rock, then cast off on the right hand line of bolts.

6 bolts, chains