The LGS (Last Great Splitter)

The Story: This line is obvious and directly in the middle of all the established routes on the wall near the trail terminus, but had not been climbed presumably because of two obvious death blocks about 40' off the ground: big and scary enough looking not to attempt to lead up to, and around. Last spring (2014) I climbed to the top of the cliff and threw off an 80m rope and rapped down hoping to create a two pitch route to the top. The upper rock was not so good, and the big roof, while climbable, has two GIANT blocks perched in it, so I settled for an anchor 80 or so feet off the ground just below the roof and at the end of the sweetest part of the splitter. I cleaned the big blocks 40' up very easily, gleefully watching them roll down the talus with no harm to anybody. I scrubbed and knocked off a few more crumbly and sketchy bits. Voila, a truly classic climb was revealed.

Thin climbing on finger pods lead to a bouldery flair about 20' off the ground: very sequential and not obvious. Then fun moves in a small crack switch finds a pedestal and no hands rest. A thin lieback hits a slightly overhanging jagged splitter. Finish on a sharp, pure .5 to .75 camalot splitter to handjams at the anchor. Though the start protects with Purple Metolius sized pieces, pods and weird flared jams make finger size not such an issue unless you are cursed with true sausages for dedos. First 30' are the crux, then 5.11+ to the chains.

At the top of trail, go right about 50m, around the buttress with Go Sparky Go. The LGS is 10m meters to the left of Old Sparky. Plaque.

What I used in BD sizes or equivalent: 4 .2 X4s (yellow), 1 #1 C3 (red), 3 .3 X4s (blue), 2 .4 C4s (grey), 4 .5 C4s (purple), 2 .75 C4s (green), 1 #1 C4 (red), 1 #2 C4 (Yellow).