North Cracks

The cracks on the north face of Falcon's Nest provide a highly accessible, moderate passage to the top of a spire in the middle of Sedona. This adventure can be completed car-to-car in 2-3 hours at a comfortable pace.

Pitch 1: Twin cracks on the right side of a prominent detached pillar on the north face. Start in the right crack and climb about 25 feet until its hand-crack pinches to a seam, at which point you make a long reach to gain the left crack. Good hand-jamming leads to progressively wider, more awkward, and junkier terrain. Belay under the limestone roof with 2-4" gear. (5.9, 90 feet)

P1 variation: Climbs the left-facing corner on the opposite side of the prominent detached pillar. Sketchy pro at the start leads to a stretch of jamming and thrutching. Merges with normal route at the limestone band. (5.9, 80 feet)

In order to ease rope-management as well as communication between belayer and climber, consider moving the belay above the limestone band (4th class) and ten feet left (also 4th class) to the base of P2. This belay takes 1-3" gear.

Pitch 2: Once atop the limestone band, move ten feet left to the base of a clean, flared V-slot for some strenuous deep jamming. Continue up the interesting ramp and past an alcove to the final constriction. A decent-sized chockstone squashes any hope of tunneling through the backside, so you've gotta step out and pull the roof on its right side using a staircase of crumbly footholds. Belay from the two-bolt chain anchor on the lip of the shorter of the two summit blocks. (5.9, 90 feet)

Pitch 3: From the chain anchor atop the shorter summit, walk over to the higher summit block. Step across the gap and bust a quick slab move (3-4" gear at feet if desired), then paddle to the top. (5.5, 40 feet)

Descent: This route can be rappelled directly (approx. 150 feet from the chain anchor to base) with two ropes. Alternatively, from the main summit, you can make a single-rope rappel from the older anchor (cordalette attached to two quarter-inch bolts) to the south saddle, and then scramble (heads up: 4th class thru the limestone band) back to the base.

Crack system on the north face of Falcon's Nest. See phototopo.

Standard rack to 4" 6" piece optional