- Edit (TBD)
Description
Begins via Reptiles and Amphetamines, or via the 10c corner to the right. The technical crux is likely the steep bulge above the lower starting pitch, which features a few bouldery moves. The climbing is both technical and pumpy throughout, with other cruxy sections, including one that revolves around a hold that possibly gave the route its name. Climbing to the higher anchor instead of ending at the Dr. Evil lowering hooks doesn't add much difficulty, but is fun, airy 5.10/11-, if slightly chossy at the top.
Location
Start via Reptiles or the .10c corner, then continue above the anchors. A 70m rope PROBABLY reaches from the first anchor, but maybe not from the top; be careful! Rating might be slight sandbag.
Protection
Bolts; 15 or 16 quickdraws. It is possible to stop at the Dr. Evil anchor, which consists of lower-off hooks, or continue via 'sporty' 5.10+ or 11- climbing to a higher anchor. I think the anchor has fixed hardware, but I'm not sure. 70m rope mandatory; I'm not sure it reaches the ground from the topmost anchor, so use caution!
Routes in World Wall
- 46Oval Orifice5.13aSport