Shiva

Preclip, and then launch into a little bouldery section leaving the ground. Long reaches between excellent jugs and slots eventually give way to a cramped, berry-filled coffin rest. Once you tire of staring at the rock six inches from your face, unwind out of the rest to a perch below the intimidatingly blank crux section.

An enormous undercling huck marks the beginning of the powerful crux sequence. A clip and then a huge lateral stab lead to some slightly-worse-than-you-want hooded edges, culminating in a leap for a glory jug. Enjoy the victory lap to the anchors.

Don't cheat yourself by detouring left of the crux - you'll be missing out on some of the most fun and gymnastic climbing on the Midnight Surf wall.

First route left of Tapeworm (12d)

Permadraws