- Edit (TBD)
Avant-Funk
Description
This route enticed me while cleaning Tribal Groove to the left, and looked difficult, a rarity for this place. Unsure if I would be the one to bag the FA, I rap-cleaned it anyway. Glad I did, because it's awesome - the beginning is meh which prohibits me from assigning 4 stars.
*DANGER DANGER: There is a slightly loose block stuck up in the arete that would make for an ultra-jug, so don't use it. The route climbs better without it anyway, in my opinion.
Start low on a large block that seems like it may come off (probably won't). Work your way through some boring little pockets and a matchable ledge until you hit the two equal-altitude pockets. With seemingly nothing to grab at this point, throw for the left arete (crux, but some options here) in order to eventually strike the high slit pocket to the right. Top out using your preference of dusty jugs.
Location
At the Rhythm Wall, in between Tribal Groove and Acid Jazz. Look for the high left arete.
Protection
Two pads, as the route has a bit of horizontal movement overall.