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MapDescription
This route is mostly a 5.6 dihedral, perfect for a starting leader. The climb starts on a dihedral slab that goes through a small roof down low at the 2nd bolt.(5.9) A few more slab moves get you to a great stance and easier terrain. Climb a beautiful 5.6 dihedral til it pinches off. Step out left and follow easy face (5.2)? past a bolt to the summit of Sweetie pillar. 2 raps with a 70m rope.
Location
Follow hiking directions for PSOM slabs. Fork left just before reaching the toe of the PSOM buttress. Watchtower is on the next buttress directly left of PSOM buttress, and Sweetie is just uphill from that.
Also just uphill from Gold Wall.
Protection
5 draws and a single rack up to #2 Camalot. Bring a few extra cams if your a newer leader. It's a long pitch.
Routes in Gold Wall
- 7Sweetie5.9Trad