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Peak Mountain 3

Knobtopia

FA Tom Caldwell, Mary Caldwell, Eric Dudley
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Phenomenal knob and face climbing. Definitely worth the hike.P1: Start the same as Pumpkin' Chunkin' at the dead pine tree and a series of knobs. Sling the dead tree or stick clip the first bolt. Climb the tree or the harder face to the chunky knobs. Clip the first bolt then trend up and right on easy but runout climbing to a flake with a bolt at the top of it. Pull on top of the flake and continue up to the headwall. You can get a finger sized piece at the headwall, but sling it long. Move right to a bolt before pulling onto the bulge. Pull the bulge and get another medium sized piece. Keep moving right and up into the diorite groove that takes a couple more finger sized pieces to an anchor in the bowl.P2: Move up and left to the line of bolts. Follow amazing knobs past three bolts. Get two small to medium sized pieces of gear in eyebrows above the third bolt. Climb past two more bolts. Keep an eye out for the solution hole that will take a #2 camalot. Trend up and left to the anchors.P3: Move up and right off the anchor heading for a wide groove and a single bolt. You can get a piece of gear below the bolt.Rappel the route three times with a single 60m rope.

Location

Look for the white headwall that marks the knob pitch. This wall is after the First Wall, but before the central pillar that divides the main wall. This is the last bolted climb before you reach the central pillar.

Protection

Finger sized pieces to #2, a couple long slings to prevent drag, and plenty of draws for bolts.