The Inside Passage

This is the largest overhang in Boulder and the coolest thing I've ever done (which is saying absolutely nothing). The route climbs the 50 degree ceiling of a cave and exits through an arch. There is a crux right off the ground (6c, wriggle in a tiny cam up high and test it well) and another crux halfway (7a, offset gray/yellow Alien, I think, now backed up by a pin). There is a rest at 1/4 distance (lay on your hip on a flake and try not to nod off), and a luxurious campsite at 2/3 distance atop Pigeon Prow (too pigeon pooey to erect a tent anywhere without ruining it), followed by a 6c R/X finish out a chossy A-frame you will want to load up with semi-dubious cams before launching.

I know the endless approach and fact it is a mobile pro route will keep everyone away. Hopefully I will be able to bolt this line one day, as the idiotic annoyance of placing gear interrupts the flow over stone far worse than simply clipping draws does.

Ted Lanzano flashed this with the gear

in situ

• a way better way to do this one. This would be a great training route to run laps on.

Half way up the south side of the Flying Flatiron is a cave which is clearly visible from the Maiden. Scramble up into the cave. This is the Devil's Arch, not to be confused with the summit arch of the Flying Flatiron, which I know you won't confuse it with. The Inside Passage climbs the flake/crack system through the ceiling.

Wall Rack to 3.5. Bring plenty of shoulder length runners (don't know how many anymore - many). Think I had 16 pieces with exact draw lengths. Obnoxiously heavy. (This is all so stupid)

A green Alien way up and right protects the first move. Weight test it to make sure it is seated properly. Place a yellow Alien sized cam in a ceiling crack just above the first piece, then down climb, bail, and go to the spa for some secret bleaching.

At the transition from the crack to a large deck (Pigeon Prow aka The Poop Deck) blindly fiddle in a small wire behind a block with a horizontal crack on the edge of Pigeon Prow before pulling onto the prow.

The shitty A-frame protects with medium cams. Be careful on this garbage. The crack above took a small nut and an off-set yellow/green alien for the last piece.