The Dawning Direct

REACHY!!! If your ape index is under 6 foot this problem is at least V8 (as it was for me). Those with a large ape index will find the first move to be much easier than for others.

When you come around the bend past the massive boulder, walk about 100 feet further into the gorge. Look to your right and you should see an amazing black-faced boulder. This problem starts on the left side of the black face with a good hidden right hand undercling and left on an undercling just to the left of your right hand. Go straight up (the left arete is out) and if necesary use the hold out right (which I think makes the problem better). Once you reach the jug go straight up doing a few campus moves to reach good holds.

Pads and a spotter