Wrath of the Talus Monster

Start by a patch of thorny shrubbery with easy moves on positive edges to gain the first bolt (a #2 would keep you off the deck if the unthinkable happened before clipping). Continue pulling big moves on small incuts, eventually hitting the arête below a blank patch of the face. Escape left around the corner to a finger crack and tiptoe up a slightly hollow flake using finger-size pieces for pro (make sure to use long runners) until you can reach the apex of the arête. Shuffle right below the roof on non-existent feet, aiming for a last bolt which appears completely off route to the right (rock quality dictated this placement). Pull a thuggy move to get above the roof and wander to the anchor via a wide hand crack.

A harder variation shoots straight up the face between the 2nd and 3rd bolt, avoiding the arête via a tricky sequence of hard moves on really small crimps. It meets up with the original line at the top of the arête and feels about 11c/+.

(edit: the direct line was done on lead and apparently goes at 11b. Guess I can't climb. I still feel that avoiding the arête

may

keep the grade at 11+)

WOTTM is the first line you'll see after coming down the fixed line into Pandora. Looks on the tower to your right for a clean concave face with a number of short crack features.

5 bolts, a couple of finger-size pieces and a hand-size piece (#3) for the original line. Skip the small stuff and add one draw for the direct line.

Mandatory long runners for the small gear (consider a runner + a draw) as well as the last 2 bolts.

Chain anchor at the top.