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Peak Mountain 3

The Sparkling Touch

FA Pat Goodman, 1998
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is one of Vedauwoo's hardest crack problems. Start under the roof, using the inclusion on the left before the start of the crack as a foot. Pull up, establishing yourself in the flared roof with your foot still on the inclusion, and crank out to and over the lip, topping out the slab after the crack peters out. This is a true test of flared jamming abilities, no amount of face climbing will get you up this. Bring tape.

There is reputedly a V3/4 version which starts at the lip, which can be done as an invert problem, first done in the late '90s. For this variation, skip the first move, instead starting with the right hand at the lip and the left hand underneath the roof in the horrible starting flare.

Location

This is on the north side of the large twenty foot tall freestanding boulder just below Emperor of Wyoming, which is the big dihedral roof crack.

Protection

Pad. The crux is low to the ground, so one pad should suffice. It's nice to have if you fall straight down on your back. To get down, crawl into the tree and tread very carefully on the tiny dead branches, or scootch off the edge of the boulder and jump down.