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Peak Mountain 3

Smoke Down

FA Steve Sangdahl, John Baldwin, Tom Englebach, 1996
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Decent climbing, but short. As Rolofson says, "Don't be fooled", it's much harder than it looks. Angle left past the first bolt and mantle onto a ledge. Move left around the arete and up to the roof. At this point you are just right of Wired which escapes out left around the roof. Layback the right side of the roof, crux, via one of at least two methods.

This felt much harder to everyone in our group of 3 than either

Consilience

or

Gyromancy

which we had done clean earlier in the day. We all fell and hung several times on Smoke Down. Perhaps it's not technically harder, but it's harder to do clean due to the steepness and treachery of the layback.

Location

On the right side of Black Widow where the rock becomes really grungy. Just right of

Wired

, a right-facing, right leaning trad corner capped by a roof.

Protection

5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor with rings.