Sanitarium

Wild and varied route from the bowels of the Summit Walls alcove to a highly exposed summit pitch

The first pitch climbs the overhanging arete on the right side of the deep recess, one of EP’s steepest sections of climbing starts 30’ up, cruxing (12a) where the wall eases to gently overhanging, the rest of the pitch is easier, and climbs right on the exposed sharp arete. The pitch ends on a big ledge below a big roof

Pitch 2 moves left from the belay bolts onto a slightly overhanging wall with widely spaced holds. The crux of this pitch, also 12a, is turning the small roof on the right, above that, fun face climbing leads to a bolted belay just below the edge of the giant Irie Headwall Ledge.

Pitch 3 climbs up a face from the far left end of the big ledge, 10d

Pitch 4 is several bouldery sections, 11+, of climbing leading out onto the west edge of the Irie Headwall, and finishes on a highly exposed stance below anchors on a giant summit boulder. A short exciting 20’ traverse right leads to the ledge where the original Headwall anchors were.

All bolts