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Peak Mountain 3

A Sheep at the Wheel

FA James Garrett and Kelly MacLeod
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route climbs through 4 different sections and feels like 4 different short climbs. The first section is about 5.7 and squeezes thru a fun groove where you gain the first of three ledges. Move to the right.

A small nut works at the bottom of a bulge that you can pull straight over, or move to the right use a left facing crack and wall for a few moves and then back left to stand above the bulge. This feels about like 5.8, and should definitely wake you up. Another ledge with another bulge.

This and the upper section are what you came here for!

A couple of sweet hand jams gets you above this bulge to more easy climbing up to another ledge. This feels like an 8 or a 9.

Follow a right facing flake to a rest below the final crux bulge. Plug in a great cam and a pull the roof with high feet and large side pulls. The final 20 feet is killer hand jamming, but quite pumpy climbing that could send you for a ride with tears in your eyes as your looking up at the oh-so-close anchors.

Watch the end of your 70 meter rope, you should still have about 10 feet left when you get back down.

Location

This starts about 1/3 of the way down The Sheep Wall from the left end. See topo.

Protection

A set of nuts. A set of cams with doubles from 1.5" to 3".