Dirty Love

A great adventure climb on the north face. The aid is fast and easy because the pins are fixed but  If one of the first few blows it could be a bad fall. This is the accurate description for the route. The other topo I have seen for this route is not correct and could get you in trouble if you don’t use your instincts.

Pitch 1 climb up the slab to the bolt and make a couple 5.10 moves to gain larger features. Cut left to the steep roof and aid out the roof on fixed knife blades. Belay on bolts above 5.10 A1

Pitch 2 climb up to bolt and cut left through and amazing “X” crack feature. Follow this to the small roof. Pull roof and belay at the base of large left facing corner 5.10

Pitch 3 climb corner and then cut right through the first of a few tricky boulder problems then up the face. Next you will hit 2 bolts in a row. French free through this section and cut right into right facing corner. Step left after climbing corner and continue up the face angling left past another bolt to a double bolt belay 5.11 A0

Pitch 4 climb left off belay on big jugs through the overhang then cut back right and continue straight up to the trees. 5.9

This climb is located where the roof that forms the courthouse arch comes closer to the ground. You will belay up against the wall behind the root ball of a fallen tree. There is a large block sticking up to the side of the tree

Double rack 00-2 and one or two 3s will lace it up. Hammer if you fancy maybe an extra knife blade? The knife blades on pitch one are 25+ year old. If the first couple blow you’d hit the slab hard. The my stayed in for me.