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Peak Mountain 3

Unknown Arete

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Description

This fun line climbs up the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. When I climbed it, I started up Swan Slab Chimney (5.5) to Swan Slab Squeeze (5.7). At the top of Squeeze, you can get on the arete. The first move is a couple of somewhat tricky face moves. After that, the rest is pretty easy (5.7ish) and gets much easier as the route goes up.

Please note that the PG13 rating is for leading on the old bolts.

Location

As noted in the description, this route takes the arete left of Bay Tree Crack. Walk off is the same as Bay Tree, or rapp down to the ledge atop Chimney/Oak Tree Flake/Grant's. Easy downclimb down the chimney.

The Bay Tree Crack walk off involves a 5.5 downclimb which is tricky at first.

Protection

Some wide cams (squeeze chimney) for Swan Slab Squeeze, then a handful of draws for the arete. Honestly better to do this as a TR solo with a 70m. The bolts up top are ancient 1/4 rusted dudes, and special wide pro for the Squeeze would rather be overkill.

Gear anchor up top, supplemented by one old bolt/hanger combo atop Bay Tree Crack.

EDIT: old bolts have been replaced, and a new two bolt anchor is at the top.