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Peak Mountain 3

The Black Queen

FA Unknown.
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Description

As classic as it gets.

Begin on Joker's Wild but immediately work left and up a series of left-leaning features. A crimpy crux leads to a wild finish making a big move (with big, but clean airtime if you blow it) to an incut near the top of the route.

Clip the anchor then grab a jug over the lip; or grab the jug then clip the anchor.

Location

On the rightmost formation of the Enclaves; just right of the obvious smooth, black wall that is home to Saracen. From Saracen you can squeeze through a little cleft and hug the cliff around to the right to a nice varnished platform.

Protection

Bolts.


Routes in The Enclaves and White Rock Springs North