Hostile Takeover

Look for a line of bolts between Business as Usual and Trollkind on the steep orange face. If the second pitch is too difficult, don’t miss the excellent first pitch! (Squeezing the Lemmon quality scale: 3 out of 3 stars.)

    Pitch – 1 Beautiful moves on perfect rock lead to a classic roof with big holds. Move left at the end of the pitch to a stance with anchors. (These anchors had to be placed unusually high above the ledge in order to be in solid stone, so adjust your attachment points for a comfortable stance on the ledge.) 5.11-, 8 bolts, #4-8 stoppers, 75 feet. 

    Pitch – 2 Traverse straight left off the ledge past a bolt to the right-facing corner. Climb up this to where it pinches off and begins to lean right. Very hard moves past 4 bolts lead up the steep face to the right to a point where the line finally curves back left and on to the top. 5.11+, 12 bolts, ¾”, 1”, 1½” cams, long runners for the cams, 90 feet.  

Bolts, pro to 1.5", anchors.