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MapDescription
This line is the tall, superb crack that splits the middle of the wall. Climb the left side of the blocky crack to the top of the wall. Rope drag can be greatly reduced by running out the start to a large ledge where you can place gear up in a little roof. Move out of the roof into a dihedral that leads to another roof. Climb over this roof using a massive undercling and climb large plated jugs to the anchors.
Location
Right of Sloppy Seconds and left of Cephalopagus. This route is a few lines to the left from the popular 5.9 named Little Wing.
Protection
Trad gear - mostly finger sized pieces and maybe some medium to large nuts. You can also place a BD #4 at the second roof. Extend lower placements to reduce rope drag.
Routes in Secret Garden
- 16Flashback5.10cTrad