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Peak Mountain 3

Julia Raye's Journey

FA Matthias Holladay
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb takes a traversing line, either straight right or left, depending on your preference, across the entire face. A left to right traverse is spookier for the second due to a short section of down climbing. To facilitate communicating, belay mid-way under the large roof off of a bolt and a #2.5 Friend, although there are other stances to set an anchor.

Gain the dirt belay ledge. Climb big holds up and then right across a flake to a bolt, cross Genevieve the Jewel, and move past this with good pro and edges to a stance / bolt. [Here one can climb up and onto the last part of Brigitte and anchors.} Girth hitch some natural pro and downclimb right to a ledge / bolt. Then down again to difficult climbing right under a bulge with pretty white poo on nice fins past bolts and pro to a stance in a corner under the large roof. From here, up just a bit on small edges to belay at the bolt and a #2.5 Friend for an anchor. Continue past to another bolt near a hollow flake with questionable pro. Then continue right on good holds under a roof and around a corner to more bolts / pro. From here, step down to reach a large white flake with good pro. Undercling across to a right facing corner and more FP. Then it’s an easy slab across to stance and anchor. Lower to the ground off this anchor or belay. This stance is part of the dihedral of Petra's Preference.

Location

This is the 1st climb you come to. Do a short scramble over a quartz step, and then go up on dirt bypasses the black band of coal-like rock and the roof which runs the length of the cliff. Here is the start of Julia Raye’s Journey and

Genevieve the Jewel

down to the right.

Protection

Long slings and pro ranging from small wires to a #4 Camalot. There are about 11 bolts & FP.


Routes in Far Left


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    Julia Raye's Journey
    5.10a/b
    Trad