- Edit (TBD)
Description
Galactus (the "devourer of worlds") is a beautiful 60' offwidth roof to squeeze. The pitch is accessed via a 50' 5.9 squeeze chimney or an easy scramble to the right of the approach chimney. Begin on an intimidating ramp above the chimney, and invert off a chickenwing to establish yourself in the roof. Sidewind 15-20' out the roof past the lip, and continue with a graceless grovel to a 2-bolt anchor.
Although the climbing on this route is deceptively easier than your average invert offwidth, be wary of your sparse gear placements as a miscalculation will cause a horrendous/dangerous fall into the chimney below. This is a fantastic TR for anyone wanting to climb a partially inverted style roof.
Location
Approach the route as if you were approaching
Muscle and Fitness
. The route begins on a large, flat ledge behind the
Muscle and Fitness
topout. Climb the obvious chimney directly below the route to access it or scramble up to the base from the right of the chimney.
See the 'Muscle and Fitness' area for getting there. The route is not on Upper Devil's Playground.
Protection
One #3 Bigbro and 1-2 6" cams. A 9" cam is helpful but not required. Build a solid anchor high in the crack before inverting off the ramp as a fall at the start would be a painful plummet into a chimney.