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Peak Mountain 3

The Devil's Trident

FA Wolfe, Maxson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is probably one of the best single pitch crack routes in the Platte! No joke. SPLITTER crack and varied climbing on decent stone with an enjoyable finish.

From the start of

Revelation Route

(bolted chimney in the center of Sin City), walk ~150 feet, north (right) down a hill to the dual split crack. Climb 20 feet of class 3 to a small bench at the start of the crack. Belay from here.

Begin up the thin crack (some chossy rock on the left which is only used for balanced feet) to a short section of wide hands which then reduces back to perfect hands through two tiers. Tackle the final, semi-overhung hand crack (crux) to easier ground.

Hand traverse or walk to the top of the flake that creates the crack you just climbed. Finish with 15 feet of easy slab (1 bolt) to a two bolt anchor.

Make sure to tie knots at the end of your rope - it's right at 100 feet long, and you could certainly drop your partner off the ledge.

Protection

Select nuts for the start. An overkill rack would be: single BD C4 #0.4 & 0.5 with doubles of #0.75-1, 4-5 #2s, 2-3 #3s.

Don't gimp on the #2s.