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Peak Mountain 3

King Tut

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Description

King Tut is a king line. The attractive overhanging arete and face makes a spectacular boulder problem. Start sitting with your butt on the ground, not crouching, left land on the arete right on a undercling. Just getting off of the ground those few inches is hard. Fight the barndoor, lean right and start slapping. There is a thin sidepull undercling for the right hand to aid your efforts. Reach the left hand to a diagonal pinch on the arete around head height and sag into the small but incut crimp on the face. Now you are in the stand up start which is called Tut and is a nice V3 on it's own. Scum the left toe or heel and try not to abrade your calf and shin. Reach way up to a ripple, work the arete to get established on lesser angled ground. From here follow the tall arete which in itself is a good V0 named Mummy March. On a busy day you can sit on the rock nearby and almost hear a rusty door creak as people line up and barn door off the first few difficult move. This problem is long (by diabase standards) and produces a pump. There is a lot of compression involved in climbing King Tut. I think it is one of the best problems of all grades at the Stable.

Location

The right arete of the Pyramid boulder when looking at the tall slab.

Protection

Pads, spot not necessary.