Crystal Chute

This is an excellent, varied climb that starts up a smooth granite face past two bolts, a dike and into a large flake system. The climb is really 5.7 with one or two 5.8 moves up past the first bolt. A solid 5.7 leader may want to consider stick-clipping the first bolt in order to do the climb. It is worth the effort. The flake system eventually gives out (move right) and leaves you wandering up positive 5.6 face moves, somewhat runout, past a bolt to the two-bolt belay. From the anchor climb past one bolt, move up over a small roof (accepts cams) and then past another bolt for a runout but easy climb to the top anchor. Note that P1 and P2 are both 70 meters. Pitch 2 is a real rope stretcher. If you have a shorter rope get a longer one. Sorry, it just kind of worked out that way. Otherwise with a shorter rope belay in the flake system and then again at the small roof, under which you can stuff cams. You can also skip the last pitch by traversing right to the rappel station from the first belay anchor, but the second pitch is fun too.

You can rap directly off the top chains with two 70M ropes straight down to a rap station with chains. From there it is another 70M rap to the ground. With a shorter rope you can rap way left (looking down) to a chained anchor at the top of the second pitch of Friction Affliction (above corner of large "Ice House Roof") and then down in two raps from there. Or just walk off to the north.

Note: as mentioned in the area description, this is the main Crystal Wall rappel station, which consists of two chains above a depression with a good stance. From here it is steep fourth class to the very top.

Look for a white dike leaving the ground at angle up to the right, and where the dike is about 10 feet off the ground look for two bolts, one above and one below the dike. The large flake system is obvious straight above the second bolt.

Just to the left (where the dike hits the ground) is Independence Wall, an obvious line of bolts heading up the wall.

On the topo image found under "Crystal Wall Area", this is climb number 4.

Standard rack.