- Edit (TBD)
Description
Flailure is an interesting diversion from an already obscure route. This has some fun and engaging moves with some interesting route finding and engineering of gear that are requisite for an ascent. To put it mildly, Failure (and Flailure) are simply not options. This is not a route to fall on, and hanging on gear isn't going to be a thing either.
Still, it climbs up a continuously steep feature on mostly good holds up a section of wall with no previous documented ascents, and there will be no crowds here. The rock is mostly good, and occasional protection can be found. Mind control is necessary, but it is not a horror show or unreasonable for an advanced climber to take on.
The climb is steeper than vertical most of the way but never harder than 9+ or maybe 10a... I think, but cast off with confidence and some ingenuity for placing gear. It will not be plentiful.
Swim up overhangs one at a time, resting and placing gear when possible, then tackle a left-facing corner with a crack to reach the summit of the feature, over the arete. Belay from medium-large cams here.
To descend, scramble down and to climber's left to the
SW Chimney
.
Location
Climb up
Wrongs Of Fail
to and through the right-facing dihedral section. At the top of that, start going up and left to the blunt arete and left of that feature. Head up and slightly left through a series of steep flakes and ledges, left of the blunt arete to a steep finish.
Protection
A rack of medium-large nuts + a double rack of cams from 1"-4" + a set of long slings and a few double-length runners.
Gear comes now and then, and it can be good gear, but the route was named appropriately. There are several places along the way where 'Failure (Flailure) Is Not an Option.'
Routes in Third Flatiron
- 25Flailure (Is Not an Option)5.9+Trad