Rotten Chimney

The description below, found in NMSU archives, was created by the legendary Southwest Mountaineers. It is at a minimum twenty years old, but likely dates as far back as 1970’s. The rock itself may have changed since that time. The rating system certainly has. For comparison, the Davis Route is listed in the same document as 5.3 and Boyer’s Chute as 5.2. So please treat what follows as a rough guide to an adventure, not as a solid and current info. If you do climb the route, sharing of what you learn would be appreciated.

Go to the col between North and Middle Rabbit Ears and drop down on the east side all the way to the major gully system in the middle of the east face. Climb up in this gully, bearing left, and if you are lucky, you will find the exit via a rotten chimney onto easier rock. Continue on easy rock until the descent to the rappel point is joined. Incidentally, this great face has a surplus of beautiful lines so far untouchable.