Hoagie in Heaven aka The Crystal Cling

The crux is doing an unfurling campus move from a crossed position on the jug to hit a decent sloper with the left hand. Begin on two small pockets and do a jump/swing move to a good pod, cross match, and do the crux.

This is in the top five in the Wood.

Matt Lloyd on Climbing

vimeo.com/5850768

from

Nelson Carayannis

on

Vimeo

.

It is at the Electric Kite Wall. From the very first parking lot on the left (by the old house), go back to the road and hike about 50 yards past where the pavement ends and the dirt road begins. Go virtually straight uphill, there is not really a path, so be careful bushwhacking. If you hit the cliff band on the left side, you will see a cave with several chossy problems (that end on the ledge). You need to go about 200 yards (up canyon,

i.e.

north towards rt 86) to find the line.

A few pads. The perfect rock (seriously the best in C-Wood) turns chossy at about 15 feet so either steer left and take on the choss or escape right on a slab. Both get the same grade.