- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a really fun and fairly sustained new route that yielded only one gear placement on the whole thing. It also required a good bit of cleaning but turned out to be of very high quality, and is a must do for someone looking for more of a challenge than just ordinary slab climbing or grooving. There are quite a few crystal knobs on all 3 pitches that make for interesting climbing. Most of the route is solid 5.10, with exception of the short crux on pitch 2 that is 11.
Note: this route is easily rappelled with a single 60 m rope. The first pitch diagonals, but the rap is only 80' or so.
P-1 Climb up and right following a line of 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10+ 120'
P-2 Move out left and climb past bolts on featured steeper rock that gradually gets harder, culminating in a hard 11c move. From the crux the climbing eases up past 2 more bolt to a bolt anchor. 5.11c 100'
P-3 Move left and climb past 3 bolts on featured rock to the one and only gear protected spot. Continue up and right on the ramp past 3 bolts to a ledge and one more bolt and then the bolt anchor. 5.10+/11 95'
Location
Just right of Wild Wild West and just left of Dillard Arete.
Protection
Almost exclusively bolted except for one #9 stopper and a possible #0 TCU on P-3 (both in the same spot)
Routes in Laurel Knob
- 12Clippidy Doodah...5.11cSport