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Peak Mountain 3

Bruja's Brew

FA Todd Swain & Debbie Benchley 1991
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an excellent route. Some of the easier climbing is a bit runout, but the hard stuff is reasonably protected. Apparently, "bruja" is Spanish for witch (for those of you without your foreign language dictionaries...)

The climb starts immediately right of Lotta Balls, where a small left-facing corner leads up to a roof.

Pitch 1: Climb up to the roof, traverse right, pass a protection bolt, then climb up and right on easier face-climbing to a bolted belay position. The stance is right on top of a tiny, white, left-facing corner.

Pitch 2: Continue straight up via moderate face-climbing. Set up a belay on gear 30 or 40 feet below the giant overhang. Protection on this pitch is limited.

Pitch 3: Climb up to the overhang near its right end. Follow an improbable ramp a long way to the left (5.6) over soft and fragile rock. When the climbing becomes easy, go straight up to a belay at a small bush.

Pitch 4: Easy climbing goes up a low-angle crack to the top.

Descend left with a couple of short rappels.

Protection

standard rack