- Edit (TBD)
Description
This climbs the left-hand arete to outer face of the access chimney to Sickle Ledge. Originally protected by slinging a nearby tree, the tree protection is no longer an option and new bolts were added. Work the arete climbing past two bolts staying right until the it slabs out and leads to the new 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt appears pretty high and committing from the ground but this was truly the safer option. Adding a lower bolt would cause the climber to swing left and take a nasty whipper into the wall. If one was to fall on the committing move to reach the first bolt, it really is not bad with a spotter and again the better option.
Location
The fourth route to the right of Cunt Cave. This route just to the right of Sickle Crack was originally known as "Mind Expansion" 5.10c R X with the FFA going to Ken Duncan. It was discovered by Tod and I that no one had climbed this dangerous route for many years, and from the condition of the route no one was going to. I (Scott Riley) contacted Ken and permission was granted to retro bolt this line adding the safety of the modern era. After cleaning and bolting this line was re-established as Scofflaw Arete.
Protection
2 bolts and a 2 bolts anchor with Quick Links
Routes in [Redacted]
- 3Scofflaw Arete5.10cSport