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Peak Mountain 3

Earwax

FA Don Harder, Dougal McCarty FFA: Terry Lien, Jon Nelson
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Slightly dicey climbing off the ground leads to better protected but thin climbing through discontinuous cracks to a steep section through a bulge. The technical crux is just below the bulge, but a pumpy section still lurks above.

One can stop at the Young Cynics anchor at 75 or continue to another anchor for a slightly longer pitch.

Location

This is the thin crack right of Killslug and left of Young Cynics and Soul on Ice.

A 60m will lower from the midway anchor. If the entire pitch were cleaned, two ropes would be needed.

Protection

Lots of thin to #2 or 3 Camalot; possibly wider for the very top, if it were clean. Double or triple up on nuts and finger size. Midway anchors are chains on aging bolts; top anchor has been updated.