There's Gold in Them Hills

A tower / rim route with lots of off-fists that will test all your crack technique and only needs a single 70. Plus a nice first pitch for cragging. Named after the three #8s we hauled up to establish it, now it goes on a friendlier rack up to 6.

P1) Work up through the sizes from fingers to chimney with one protection bolt. Face holds make for cool moves and less strenuous wide. Traverse in from the right at the start with a hueco jug to avoid a little crumbly rock. 5.10+, singles .5-6, extra 3+4 if desired

P2) Take the right fist crack (a little sandy) through a roof until you can stem left into the hand crack. Use both cracks to get into the "Circumcisor", a chimney with #6s on both sides of a giant, sharp flake. Exit left at the top and make a short traverse into another fist and OW crack. A friend said this was some of the most unique climbing he's done at the creek. 5.11/-

P3) From the belay ledge, head back into the #4s crack as it widens and steepens. A careful traverse right on stacked blocks gets you to a bolt. A second bolt protects the final slab moves to the summit. Tat extends the anchor bolts here for a better pull, so be prepared to replace if crispy. 5.11

Down and right from the Pharaoh belay pedestal. Right-center of the wall

1x .5-1, 2x 2-3, 3-4x 4-5, 1x 6, optional 7, alpine draws, heaviest on 4s, 70m required