- Edit (TBD)
Californio
Description
Sit start the crack/ seam with the left hand in the crack/sidepull. Smearing and edging with the feet, use crimps to gain an insecure hand jam up high. Slopers can be used instead of jamming but this makes the problem more difficult.
The standing start is excellent as well and goes at perhaps V2.
Location
Californio is 0.55 miles from the Shelf Road parking lot on Gridley Road. Having parked at the Shelf Road parking lot, hike up the road for 0.28 miles. Leave the road and take the single track heading steeply uphill on the right. Continue following the single track uphill and up the ridge for another 0.27 miles (this part takes a while due to the steepness of the trail) until the trail passes between the Blockhead Boulder on the left and the Californio boulder on the right. Californio is facing back towards shelf road. It may be hard to spot chalk marks on Californio from the trail, so use the blockhead boulder as a landmark. Once the blockhead boulder is seen just left of the trail, head down and right until you see the Californio crack.
Protection
Pad.