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Peak Mountain 3

The Big One (aka Afternoon Delight)

FA T.R. Shane MIller 1989 Lead K.Rose 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This wide crack in a left facing corner has a flake at the base of it that looks like a number one. Most often liebacked but offers excellent right side in offwidth climbing. Because you have to place protection in a smaller crack inside the big crack and are only in a few spots able to see the quality of protection you are placing I will describe the climb in detail and recommend placing 2 pieces at the places I indicate in the description.

15’ of easy chimneying leads to a stance just below where the crack narrows to about 10 inches. From this stance place some pro in a thin hand crack inside the big crack then bust out with your technique of choice for about 15’ to the next spot you are able to get fully inside the crack for a no hands stance. Again, place some pro and bust out another 15’ to where the crack narrows to about 4’ and a no hands stem rest appears. Another 15’ of hand jambs and liebacking leads to the chains.

Protection

Pro ¾” to 4” (.5, .75 and #1 camelots especially useful)