- Edit (TBD)
Description
I've looked at this for years as the logical extension to Fuel Injected. The corner above the existing anchor continues to a great ledge way up there. Once you've achieved the Hard Bod you can graduate to the Dad Bod! The rock quality is great and the climbing likely isn't harder than 10+ or so, but you may be a bit gassed and have to tap the extra fuel cells. We considered many name options including the famous Jackson Browne song "Running on Empty." The ledge at the top of the route is amazing, with very beautiful walls flanking you at the perfect stance. Wish I had a photo.
The route was put up in what may be one of the longest yo-yos of all time. Aaron got the rope up on Fuel Injected, then I TRed up that with the tagline and some gear and led on. Hauling the drill up with a Gri-Gri on my belay loop with no pro and crouching on the ledge was one of my more interesting first ascent experiences. Bulldogs drill fast but they sure aren't light.
At the end of the day Joe led the whole route for the full trad dad experience, narrowly pulling off Fuel Injected and then heroically persevering on. It was the conclusion to an amazing and classic Creek day with a good crew. This was also the last day I climbed with my late good friend Nolan Smythe. Rest in peace brother. You were one of the best and most genuine of the new generation of climbers. Respect.
Location
Pass the anchor on Fuel Injected and keep on chuggin! At the very end you'll step left to access the ledge.
Protection
Rack for Fuel Injected plus a couple of green and purple Camalots as well as some fingers/tips options for the very end. An 80m rope may make it but we had two ropes so that's uncertain. Watch your ends.
Routes in Donnelly Canyon
- 5Dad Bod5.12-Trad