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Peak Mountain 3

Obsessions

FA Martin Berzins
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This classic route is a route worth obsessing over. It climbs steeper than sessions with longer reaches to even better holds. The route is sustained, so climb fast or else the steepness will catch up to you and you'll find yourself struggling to hold onto jugs.

Edit for those that couldn't understand the winch start:

Either clip the first draw and pull up to start the route, traverse in from the start of sessions, have a buddy get down on his hands and knees to boost you up to start, rebuild the giant rock pile that was once at the base, or do the wicked hard boulder problem that changes the grade.

Location

Starts to the left of sessions, follows it's own bolt line, and ends on the same chains. The start used to have a large rock used to reach the starting holds, the rock is now gone, but occasionally a stack of smaller rocks can be found under the start (another way of starting this route has been described as a winch start using the first draw to pull up), or if you're wicked strong figure out the bouldery start.

Protection

Rope, harness, quickdraws, and belayer needed. Shoes, chalk, and forearm muscles recommended.

For better clipping stances and less rope drag at the top due to the steep nature of the route, double up your draws or use 60cm/ 24in slings.