- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is on a fantastic, small cliff that hangs over the river. It was looked at by many over the years but didn't get completed until Summer 2020, when the new normal had begun.
From the hanging belay, move left on good edges to a hard move to a sidepull. This leads right into the crux of the route, tick-tacking your way up the subtle arete to the jug at the slopey shelf. Rest up before the long run up the slopey corner to a tricky mantel. A final section on interesting knobs gets you to the anchor/lip.
Location
Located about 50 yards downstream from
The River Why
, there's an obvious pullout right in front of the wall. After crossing the stream, find a rough trail 20-30 yards upstream from
The River Why
. This takes you up and around to a grassy area above the cliff. There's an anchor here from which you can rappel, or carefully downclimb to chain anchors near the lip. Take the time to place your quickdraws and chalk holds on the way down to the semi-hanging belay.
If you are concerned about getting back out, leave a fixed line, and bring a jug so you can always escape.
TYROL: once someone has done the hike around and rappeled in, you can easily setup a temporary Tyrolean. There's a two bolt anchor on a large boulder directly below the pullout, across from the hanging belay. Folks can ferry across to climb, and it makes it less of a cluster at the belay. You can also escape this way if you have good tactics. PLEASE do not leave fixed lines up, the Forest Service and Boating Community do not approve of them.
Protection
10 bolts + a 2-bolt anchor.
Routes in Narrows River Wall
- 1The New Normal5.13aSport