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Peak Mountain 3

North Face

FA Karl Gustafson and Don Ackerman, 1951; Karl Gustafson and Skip Greene?
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

This route is listed in Gerry Roach's book as one of the top ten routes in the Flatirons. It has been a popular route for a long time and is quite historic. To reach the bottom of the climb, hike around to the North side of the Matron and follow a climber's trail up until you reach a large block. Chimney up between this block and the Matron and start on the bench immediately afterwards. The climb is roughly four pitches long - about 1.5 pitches of steep 5.6 on the North Face, and then easy scrambling to the summit on the East Ridge.

P1: follow a left-leaning crack on the face past a few old rusty pins to a ledge with a small tree (5.6).

P2: climb the short crack out onto the East Face, and belay on a ledge wherever convenient (5.6).

From here, the climb is much like scrambling on the East Faces of any Flatiron and is easy, well-featured, and offers little pro. Scramble for a couple hundred feet of 5.2-5.4 to the summit.

Protection

A light rack is sufficient. Bring maybe 1 set of nuts and a small hanful of cams as well as a few quickdraws for the fixed pins. If you are thinking of soloing the climb, bring a rope for the descent off the back side or be stuck with a long and not very pleasent downclimb.


1000 km
1000 mi