- Edit (TBD)
Description
A good route that still has a few flakes to shed. We cleaned a few, but a few more scraps will undoubtedly fall on future ascents.
This is a a good 65' pitch to a bolted anchor that is best continued directly up a 5.0 slab to Bending Nails (5.7) or
Finish Carpenter
(5.9) or merged right though
Antifreeze
to The Big Narrow for ~100' and then continued into '
The Finish Carpenter
for 160'(?) of quality climbing.
Start off in the right-facing, right-leaning corner off of the leftmost of two single bolt and gear belays. This is the center of 3 such corners and 2-such bolts. The right most is
Antifreeze
(10a) and the rightmost, hanging overhead 15 feet or so is
The Tooth
, (10d). Climb up on continuous jams in hands and flares with good feet and good gear to a flaring tight hands jamming crux (5.9-) and then past the end of the corner onto a slab after 20 meters. A bolted anchor is visible if you are planning to retreat down to climb another opening pitch.
If not going right back down for
The Tooth
or
AntiFreeze
, then continue onward up the 5.0 slab and beyond, or tend right past the end of
Antifreeze
to merge with The Big Narrow, and follow those cracks (moderate) to a ledge, now 100' over the belay or so.... Cross some blocks on a ledge and continue up a thin-hands right facing corner (
Finish Carpenter
, 5.9-) to the blocky ledge of the rock reached first via the approach.
Location
This route is the center of 3 consecutive right-facing corners on a ledge below tier 3, reached by rapping from the slab anchor. It starts up above the left-most of 2 belay bolts.
Protection
A rack from fingers to 3" with a good number of slings to run it all together.